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Measuring the Locations |
Starting to feel like some real progress being made now as it begins to look like a car. One of this week's jobs was to fit the windscreen wipers. I've stuck with the factory recommendation of having 3 wiper arms, this should meet the IVA requirement and I think the 3 wipers, whilst not authentic, does give a good look. The first task is to fit the 3 wheel boxes, positioning of these is critical as it will determine the location of the wiper arms. AK do provide some guide marks on the body and suggested measurements in the manual which were my starting point. I found the offside marks and measures were a reasonable starting point as was the central one, however the near side was out by around 30mm, After much playing with positions and measuring for accuracy as well as the aesthetics I settled on the final locations. The holes for the wheel box spindles are made at roughly 45 degrees to the bodywork, the usual process of start small and open up applies until the spindle will pass through the body and sit at the correct angle on the spacer (provided by the factory). Once all the spindles were fitted and the wipers arms & blades attached I made some test 'sweeps' there is a small amount of adjustment needed to align the wipers and I found the middle one is just catching the top of the screen surround, there is scope for adjustment in the arm, but I'll leave the final tweaks until I can run the system and let it find its natural resting place.
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Fitting Spindles |
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Wipers Fitted |
With the wheel boxes in place the next step is to get the mechanism sorted. The motor is mounted onto a factory fitted plate on the drivers side of the scuttle, there's a large rubber pad that sits behind the motor to reduce any noise. A long, flexible, rack is provided to link the wheel boxes to the motor. With the wipers removed (as the spindles need to rotate 360 deg) I fed the rack through the wheel boxes and fitted the motor into its natural resting point, taking care to ensure the motor was clear of the surrounding body & metal work. The rack can be trimmed to length as there is plenty of excess, leaving a few cm of excess at the end. Once happy with the position of rack there are tubes supplied that will protect & support the rack the rack, 4 sections are needed, each needs to be cut to the exact length and flared at the end. I cut each each length just too long to allow for a very slight curve to follow the arch of the scuttle, this is how the rack sites naturally. It does mean cutting few times to get the right length and ensure that the wheel boxes sit at the correct angle. With the rack removed I fitted the tubing between the wheel boxes, motor and on the end, then feed the rack through with plenty of grease going onto the rack and the tubes - messy!
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Cutting the Tube |
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Flaring the Tube |
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Wiper Motor, Rack & Tube Installed |
It's pretty much ready to test, but I'm waiting for a find day as I've not yet connected the battery to the loom and I want to do this outside - just in case!
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Align the Over-Rider |
Onto the front Nudge bar. I've chosen the the full bar and over-riders from Brasscraft. I like their quality and the sound advice I got from Chris when I visited the workshop. The first step is to connect the over-riders to the bar. Threaded holes are already in the ends of the bar, marking is not so easy as there are no square edges to measure from - care was needed.
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Mark & Punch the Centres |
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Drill |
I marked up the position on the over-rider with making tape and set the centre with a punch, then removed the masking tape before drilling. This was advice from Chris, apparently leaving the making tape on can pull the chrome finish if you drill into it. I supported the over-rider with a wooden block inside while drilling, the metal is quite thick (around 6 mm). I made sure to use new drill bits to get a clean cut and avoid any accidental slip.All fixed together with some M8 bolts, lock washers and threadlock.
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Working out the best fit |
Next step is to align with the body and drill holes to take the 4 studs that fix the bar. As with may things on this car it's not easy with all the curves. The factory have marked some approximate positions, but you do need to test and make sure. A great idea to judge the best position and line it all up is to use a camera tripod, you can easily adjust the height and angle. As with many of my best ideas, I stole this from someone else (thank you JPB). Because of the angle of the body work the holes are larger than you would think.
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Completed |
Once the holes are cut the studs line up with two angle brackets, supplied by the factory. Fit the brackets onto the studs and mark the position on the inner wing. Drill out the holes in the wing and secure the brackets. There is still some adjustment of the position of the angle of bar and the depth from the body by moving the position of the locking nuts on the bracket. The installation is finished with some chrome tube that slides over the studs and into the body.
The quality of the parts from Brasscraft is very good, they look great. But I think the overall look is let down when you look at the back of the over-rider. I expected this to be hidden behind the bodywork but the curve at the front of the car leads your eye to the rough finished inside of the metalwork. It seems this is authentic to the original but I'll make up some stainless covers at some point and tidy this up.
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